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Year In Review
Showing posts with label floors. Show all posts
The Bedroom
This is what the bedroom looked like when we first were shown our house. It was in really rough shape. I hated it mostly for the huge AC unit (that doesn't make sense because we have central air) is permanent unless we get someone to come out and patch the siding and huge interior hole it would leave. It kind of became our junk room, while we slept upstairs in the "finished" attic.
Which is kind of embarrassing really, but isn't that what most spare rooms end up being? Warehouses for things you don't need or have any use for?
So this past month I decided something needed to be done, and painted the wood floors white. I decided to be extra awesome and protect them with a poly coat.
BIG MISTAKE. They turned pee yellow.
So at this point, I was back to square one. I had to resand everything, buy the correct kind of paint (valspars no VOC floor and porch paint) and redo everything. So something that should have been accomplished in a weekend actually took a month.
Finally the floors were white and wonderful though!
I patched all the weird spots in my hundred year old plaster walls and was ready for paint.
I chose Valspar's Belle Grove Aloe Green.
The overly helpful lowes paint guy drew a heart on the can and gave me some good advice. With older walls like mine, which are far from perfect, you should use a flat paint with a 1/2 nap roller. Not only will the roller carry more paint, but it way lay it thicker with more texture to cover imperfections. The flat paint also helps hide anything. Once you've painted the whole room you then go over everything lighting "feathering" it. It made a huge difference and looks awesome.
So over the weekend I cut in, and started painting.
I just got everything moved in and set up. I am SO PLEASED. There's still a fair amount of work that needs to be done, but this feels like the most completed room in the house so far.
My DIY drop cloth curtains, that need to be hemmed. They also cover the gross AC unit until we can get it fixed. A framed seed sack, in the largest Ribba frame (My Favorite!) available at ikea! The window is a straight view into my neighbor's less than picturesque backyard and side deck. I'm thinking about just frosting the windows instead of always keeping the curtain shut. Good idea or bad idea?
The lamps are a total target score, they were ten dollars a piece, more than half off. I love a good lighting deal.
My DIY Vanity, using jetmax cubes from Michael's, A mirror left in the basement by a previous owner of my home,and a project board from Lowes. The chair is the urban chair from Ikea, and the mirror is also from ikea, as is the bed spread. The glove mold is an antique mall find, named "The Handlander", don't ask. The green lamp is target, and I'm not sure if it's staying there. I need something a bit more practical for makeup lighting. As far as the desktop of the vanity, should I paint it, stain it, or seal it? I kind of like the look of the raw wood.
I'm at a bit of a loss what to do above the bed though, maybe a few bookshelves? I also plan on making new matching slipcovers for my Solsta ottomans, Ikea of course, that serve as nightstand. I'm thinking either bright white, or maybe a fun pattern. After all it's just a slipcover and I can change them at whim. I do wish our headboard was a bit more "regal" looking. Something tall and tufted. I might DIY and see what I can come up with, as a new bed frame isn't in the budget currently.
I also need to tackle the closet from hell that's in this room. It's huge, but poorly organized, which sucks.
Learn From My Mistakes
Remember how stoked I was on the newly painted white wood floors we did in our future bedroom? Well consider me officially bummed. I wanted to be awesome and protect all my hard work with a top coat of polyethurathane.
Well, I don't know if you know this, but oil based poly will yellow with a vengeance.
White Wood Floors
I know like many other people I've lusted after the very Swedish painted white wood floors. I had just the room to do it in too! The "guest bedroom" Which really is just a catch-all room where laundry and extra furniture ended up. While it has wood floors they weren't very nice. Gouged and stained from the previous owner. Check out the listing photo to see what I mean...
They actually look much better there than they do in real life.
I know some people feel very strongly about painting wood. I don't though, and since it's my house you really shouldn't care if I paint a very shitty wood floor.
I started off sanding what little finish remained on the floors.
Then I put two coats of primer down.
There was some staining that still came through the primer, I though about using kilz... but I got lazy.
Then I used valspars paint and primer for three more coats in a satin finish. High gloss is really hard to keep clean on a floor.
Then since the floor is so so white, the rest of the at least 20 year old paint looked awful and yellow. So We set to paint all the trim with the same valspar paint. Also decided on a few samples for a new wall color.
Behold! The world's worst iPhone panorama! It looks 100 times better even in this halfway complete state. I'm waiting on the floor to be completely dry before I start working on prepping the walls for paint though. It's been about three days and it's still kind of tacky. Cincinnati has been pretty humid, so I'm not going to pull my hair out if it takes more than a week to dry.
I'm considering putting a poly top coat on, but that might be more hassle than it's worth. I've heard that back in the old days, people would paint their woods floors once a year in the spring to keep up with maintenance. That seems really doable. Even if it's just to touch up scuffs.
We decided to go with Belle Grove Aloe Green by valspar for the walls.(It's the paint sample on the left wall in the picture above.)
It looks a bit more blue on our walls than in the sample. It's pretty soothing though, which is good, because this room is going to our new bedroom, surprise! The whole bedroom dreaming moodboard has actually been set into motion. While I love how much room we have in the loft, summer+not the greatest insulation+second floor bedroom=cranky Paige. It gets VERY hot.
One day we are ideally going to gut and redo the upstairs, adding more vents and insulation. Until that day though, I can't handle the heat. I also have this really unreasonable fear that one of the huge trees surrounding our house will fall and kill me while I sleep. I'm obviously really reasonable.
There's still a bit of one stain that peeks through. Our bed will be over it though, so I'm not too concerned. There's still so much work that needs to be done in this room, but I'll keep everyone updated!
DIY dropcloth rug
To be honest this is less a rug and more a floor cloth. It's also one of my new favorite way to incorporate prints into my home. Oh and did I mention it's cheap? Pretty much one of my favorite DIY's of all time. For some of your time and about fourty dollars you can have an awesome new floor covering. This project could be more or less expensive depending on how much your fabric of choice costs, but since you only need around two yards I can't see this getting too crazy.
Supplies
Alene's tacky glue spray (11$)
Home depot 6x9 drop cloth (10$)
2 yards of wide heavier weight fabric, I used ikea's Stockholm print (18$)
Carpet gripper (already owned, but you can pick one up super cheap at Ikea, like five dollars cheap)
Sewing machine and thread
Seam gauge
Iron
Step one
If you plan on ever being able to throw your floor cloth in the washer, please prewash it as you plan on doing so in the future. This will save you from getting some funky shrinkage and ruining all your hardwork! I didn't use any fabric softener though, because I felt like any stiffness would help keep it from curling up.
Step two
Iron out all those wrinkles once your fabric and drop cloth are dry. I even starched mine a bit. This will help you be able to sandwich the two pieces neatly with the glue.
Step three
Smooth out the dropcloth and start applying the tacky glue spray. I then started rolling out the fabric, right side up and sticking it to the drop cloth, slowly removing any bubbles with my hands. I ended up using the whole can, so feel free to be liberal with your spraying. It'd be a good idea to wear a mask and do this part outside. Unless glue fumes are your thing.
Step four
Once everything is nice and glued, give it a few minutes to set, trim the drop cloth to the edge of the fabric. Flip it so the fabric side is down and start ironing over about a 1 to 1.5 seam allowance using your seam gauge. That seams kind of big, but I think it adds even more weight to the finished product.
Step five
Once everything is ironed go ahead and hem everything up. You can pink your seam allowance if you want but I really didn't think it was required.
Step six
I think I might even tack some thick felt or wool to the back of this to add some cushion, but besides that I'm very happy with it! For those of you worried about it not staying put, never fear! I did the twist and shout test, plus the crazy dog after a bath test. In my very scientific studies it moved nay once. I even vacuumed it, with my sweeper brush on, and it worked out fine.
Really theres no reason not to give this little rug a try!
For your time, here's the previously mentioned crazy dog photobombing my rug shots.

Inspired by this tutorial.
Kitchen Floor
In case you can't remember what My kitchen looked like when we moved in, here's all the photos I can find!
And about 300 dollars later!
We still have to wax and buff the tiles, but I'm basically way in love already. Who'd have thought you could get so excited about floor tiles? Also I'd like to thank Dad and laurie for coming and putting them in! Next for the kitchen I've got more painting planned!
VCT Tiles
So the current state of my floors leaves a few things to be desired.
1) I like the marmoleum, I really do. It’s eco friendly and not crazy bad on the eyes. BUT the poly used over it has yellowed and where the previous owner kept a rug there’s an obvious color difference.
2)Between the hallway, the kitchen, and the bathroom the floors are all vastly different. I’m not against variety, but seeing as it’s only about 200 feet of space combined, and they all but up against each other something has to be done!
3)Changing the floor in the bathroom will make it feel less horrible, and will totally change the look.
4) I want dark, smooth, and dare I say sexy floors.
That’s were VCT comes in. I had originally wanted to do black penny tile all throughout the back of the house. Once I priced that out though I realized that wasn’t going to happen. Just for the kitchen it ended up being 900 for only the tiles. With VCT tiles I can do the entire back of the house for I’m guessing around 300. My dad will be coming up from the sunshine state to help me in the process.
VCT, or vinyl composite tiles, are the stuff of some people’s nightmares. See;
Which while stays true to the vintage aspects, is a little to kitsch for my tastes. I’m thinking of VCT more along the lines of eichler houses.
So stayed tuned, I'm shooting to put them in around mid july!
Refinishing 100 year old hardwood floors : Carpet recycling & choosing a greener finish
One of the most important things to me in this renovation is trying to stay as green and environmentally friendly during the whole process. I want to really consider what materials and chemicals I’ll be including in my home.
The second most important thing being cost effectiveness. Green and cost effective don’t always go hand in hand now a days. So I’ve been trying to find a good balance between the two for my first home project.
I assume you’re familiar with the doomcarpet in the living and dining rooms of the house? The absolute second I get those keys I’m ripping that bad boy up. I haven’t called The city of Cincinnati to see if they can handle recycling carpet, but if not there’s several companies in the area that will do it for a fee. Cincinnati did just get a killer new recycling plant, so I’m pretty sure they would be able to handle the job. I wonder if I cleaned the carpet maybe Building Resources would be willing to take it as well. Someones gotta be lusting over red carpets right? Hell, if I can find a piece worth saving maybe I’ll even get it bound at home depot and make an area rug. I highly doubt that any part is untouched by kitty juice though.
Once the carpet is recycled or reused the hard part starts. I’m going to tackle refinishing the almost 100 year old floors by myself. Having looked into it since I put the offer in on the house I’m pretty sure I can handle it. While it won’t be a total walk in the park, lots of cleaning and sanding in between steps. It’ll be a good judge of whether or not I’ll be able to DIY larger projects in the house, or whether I fold and hire those out to contractors. I’ve got faith in me though.
I’ve got it narrowed down to three choices as far as finishing the floors goes.
1) Tung Oil
2) Hard Wax Oil
3) Soy based polyurethane
1) Tung Oil
So Far this is what I’m leaning towards. It’s what could have been used on these floors originally. It’s a completely natural product, derived from nut of the tung tree. It’s a drying oil that hardens on contact to air. Touch up with tung oil is super easy. You just apply the oil to the area that needs it and it will blends seamlessly with the original finish. No sanding or stripping required, which is a serious plus.
There are several variations of Tung oil available today.
Waterlox (around 115.00 a gallon) sells a version that has more “stuff” added to it, and is the most expensive. I haven’t been able to figure out what other ingredients they’re adding, but usually that means I don’t want to know. Plus their VOC content must be pretty bad seeing as you can’t buy it in a lot of places for their VOC’s. So Far this one is pretty much a no go for me.
Polymerized Tung Oil (about 86.00 a gallon) is when they cook tung oil to the point of it’s highest threshold. It results in the tung oil dryer to a harder and more durable finish. It does have extra solvents added though. But as per the website the website of sutherlandwelles.com
“Our polymerization process helps to lower the toxicity of our Tung oil finish as it improves the curing ability of the oil, reducing the need for additional chemical dryers. The driers that are used in the formulations have been researched and found to be of the lowest toxicity available. The Polymerized Tung Oil must also be formulated with solvents to thin the oil to maximize its workability and penetration. We use the purest solvents available, reducing the environmental impact and minimizing a finisher’s exposure to toxic fumes and chemicals. When the formulation is complete, the result is a Polymerized Tung Oil finish that is both finisher-friendly and environmentally responsible.”
Another plus is that I can buy this locally, which means no shipping, so this would be my least expensive options
100% Pure Tung Oil available (1 gallon is about 46.00, but with the gallon of citrus solvent it would be more around 100 .00) through realmilkpaint.com is exactly as sounds. It’s 100% the real deal. Nothing added. You do have to cut it with a solvent, but luckily realmilkpaint.com offers an all natural citrus solvent. While completely natural, this would be probably the most expensive after shipping costs, but it’s the most green.
2) Hard Wax Oil
“OSMO Polyx-Oil (the original Hardwax Oil) is our favorite floor finish and is made from natural oils and waxes. Key ingredients in Hardwax Oil include sunflower, soybean and thistle oil, plus two hard, natural waxes—carnauba and candelilla. A Brazilian palm tree, Copernica cerifera, produces the carnauba in its leaves, berries and stalks. Villagers cut down fronds, dry them for several days, and then beat off the wax. The candelilla comes from the outer coating on a desert shrub, Euphorbia antisyphiliti, that grows in northern Mexico. Farmers boil the leaves and stems with water and acid to release the wax”
-www.ecohaus.com
This for a gallon would be coming close to 150 smackers. It sounds awesome, but that’s way more than the tung oil, and I don’t know if I could buy this locally so shipping would be added to the expense. It’s got all the qualities of tung oil . Unless I can find a deal, locally, I don’t think this is the route I’ll be taking..
3) Soy based polyurethane
I’m pretty sure I can get a low VOC verison locally (for around 50.00 a gallon). I might take this route if after I sand the floors if I really like the natural state. This would be one of the easiest to apply, and should have the strongest finish. But if I did need to repair any spots on the floor, this would be the hardest. Sanding would be required. Which I hate.
I think that I’ll end up either doing an option of number 1, or number 3. It really just depends on how nice the floors are after I sand them. I have a feeling I’ll go with Tung oil though. I guess we’ll see.















